There are three noodle shops I return to, and each one is for a different reason. The first has the clearest broth I know, light enough to finish and still want another bowl. The second is all about the noodles themselves, chewy and uneven in the way hand-pulled noodles should be. The third is not the best on either count, but the room is quiet, the tables are wooden, and I can sit there for an hour without feeling rushed.

I do not rank them. Ranking would miss the point. A shop is not a score, it is a mood, and different days call for different moods.

If you go, go hungry, go early, and order what the regulars order. That is usually the right choice.